……Rome’s love affair with the internal combustion engine. The city has 978 motorized vehicles — cars, motorcycles, and scooters — per 1,000 inhabitants, according to municipal data. That compares with 398 vehicles per 1,000 Londoners and 415 per 1,000 in Paris….

An investigation of the schizophrenic tension between the suffocating imposition of the city's history and anarchic private language of driving in Rome.

in two parts